The essence of travelling to places lies not in the place itself but in the feeling that it gives when you walk into its doorstep. As I decided to put on a pair of worn out sports shoes to hang around the place we know as Bungamati, I was left aghast gracing one of the oldest civilisations of Kathmandu just few kilometres away from a modern city. Passing through the Bhainsepati town-planning, one would expect the place would be cramming itself with everything new — modern buildings, freshly paved roads and unpleasant pollution.

But you might be in for a wonderful cultural surprise. Instead of towering buildings, the area is surrounded by brick houses of not more than two stories. Instead of black-topped avenue, the roads were nicely laid out in baked bricks. And the best of all, the village is devoid of any noise or air pollution.Yes, you have travelled back in time, only this time it is not an old photograph but a contour of new body with an old soul. Having been situated around eight kilometers south of Kathmandu; it is still untouched by the postmodern time and lifestyle. The villages have managed to preserve half a millennium year’s old history of its existence.

From a vantage point, one can clearly see the entire village of Bungamati. As soon as you enter the village, friendly residents, mostly from the Newar community, welcome you with grin. While walking around the alleys, a typical Newar village is evident when you see the batches of chilies hung at the beautifully carved wooden windows, the grain is milles, peddling of the traditional herbs at the shops and elderly people basking in the sun clathed in traditional Daura Suruwal and Haku Patasi. Even with most of the locals out in the field during the day; the nooks and corners of the village are filled with small showrooms where the traditional occupations are kept alive by the present generation. Stone and woodcarving, thread weaving, carpet manufacturing are a few of them.

As an old quote goes, “All roads lead to Rome”, with Bungamati “All the narrow gullies lead to the temple of deity Rato Machhendranath”. Regarded as the patron of the valley, his large Shikhar-style temple in the centre of the village square is his home for six months of the year (he spends the rest of his time in Patan). The process of moving him around Patan and backward and forward to Bungamati is one of the major festivals in the valley which is celebrated with much fanfare.

Karya-binayak temple, dedicated to a natural stone named Ganes, is another major attraction of the village. The temple holds tremendous amount of importance in the Newah culture. One of the locales of the village said about the history of the village: "It was established as early as the 7th century. The first stele of Amshuverma was found in Bungamati dated Sambat 29 or 605 AD where the first mention about Kailashkut Bhavan was found. The stele further shows that Bungamati had already been a famous village for agriculture, livestock and fishing. Bugayumi was name of the village in Lichchhavi period and then it changed to Bungapattan during the Malla dynasty.
Bungamati, with its timeless beauty shows where the heart of real Nepal lies. Let’s take a glimpse at its unfazed heritage.

Artistically blessed, both the villages boast wood carving, handicraft as their main profession after farming. Small spaces and shops showcase the exquisite artwork and the technique behind creating it.

The pillars of past and the future intertwined with history, respect and love.

As she stood in one of the alleys’ flaunting the traditional haku patasi and gave a smile which had seen a lot of hardships, I realised beauty is found everywhere.

With abundance of land available for mustard farming, another thing Khokana is famous for is its oil mills. Within every 20 to 30 steps you take there is an oil mill sending out an aromatic scent drawing us in.

No substitute for hardwork.

Said to have been built by King Shree Niwaas Malla almost 300 years ago, Bungamati temple is a shikhara style temple which holds the shrine of god Rato Machhendranath and also its home for six months of the year.

People generally know that there are three living goddesses (Kumaris) in Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur. But forgot about one such goddess in Bungamati. Allowed to visit only during special occasions, her presence holds a special place in the cultural setting.

Small haven for tourists.

If you ever get tired of city’s hustle bustle, I dare you to take a bus from Ratnapark to Bungamati bus park to explore the living museum. Be brave!